Bangkok to Amphawa: an Evening Market, Which Changes the Whole Day

Amphawa runs Friday to Sunday only, and opens in the afternoon — published start times range from 12:00 to 15:00, with the market busiest at dusk. The firefly boats have no fixed timetable: they leave when full, generally from around 19:00, and a private boat has been listed at 600 baht. Go midweek and you will find a quiet canal with the stalls shut.

Key facts

Days: Friday, Saturday and Sunday. One source adds public holidays — worth checking near one
Opening: Sources differ: 12:00–20:00 in one guide, 15:00–21:00 in another, "usually around 14:00" in a third
Best time to be there: Late afternoon into evening, as the lanterns come on
Firefly boats: No set schedule — they depart as soon as they are full; several sources say boats leave the market around 19:00
Firefly viewing window: After sunset, roughly 18:30–20:30
Private firefly boat: Listed at 600 baht per round
Weekdays: Stalls closed, canal quiet. Not worth the drive
Fireflies guaranteed?: No. One reviewer reported seeing very few

Why the timing inverts

Damnoen Saduak wants you there by 08:00. Amphawa does not open until the afternoon. They are both floating markets an hour or two west of Bangkok, and they want opposite halves of the day — which is why trying to treat them the same way produces a bad trip.

Amphawa is a canal-side town that comes alive in the evening: food stalls along the water, boats cooking seafood, lanterns, and then the firefly trips after dark. The right shape for the day is a late lunch departure from Bangkok, the market from late afternoon, a boat after dusk, and a drive home at night.

The Amphawa day, as it actually works
Time	What is happening
14:00–15:00	Leave Bangkok. Earlier is wasted — the stalls are not open yet
16:00–16:30	Arrive. First stalls trading, canal still walkable
17:00–18:30	The market at its best; eat here rather than planning dinner elsewhere
After dusk	Firefly boats. They go when full, so join a queue rather than a schedule
20:30–21:00	Leave. Home in Bangkok by about 22:30

A vehicle that waits is close to essential on this route. The market finishes after dark in a small town with no rail link and little waiting transport, and your return depends on the firefly boat filling up — which is not something you can book to the minute.

The firefly boats, honestly

This is the part most worth setting expectations on. The boats run after sunset along the Mae Klong river and its canals to lantern trees where fireflies gather. There is no timetable: sources agree they depart as soon as they are full, with most leaving the market around 19:00, and a private boat has been listed at 600 baht if you would rather not wait.

Sightings vary. The fireflies are seasonal and weather-dependent, and at least one reviewer reported not seeing many. Go for the river at night, which is reliably lovely, and treat the fireflies as a bonus rather than the purpose.

Combining it with the morning

Because Amphawa only wants your afternoon, the morning is free — and two of Thailand's best-known sights are in the same area. Damnoen Saduak is at its best before 08:00, and the Maeklong railway market is minutes from Amphawa with trains arriving at published times through the day. A single vehicle held for the whole day covers all three; nothing else does, because the three want three different hours.

What to know before you go

Confirm you are travelling on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday
Do not book dinner anywhere else — eating at the market is the point
Bring cash; canal stalls are cash businesses
Expect the walkways to be narrow and crowded by early evening
Agree with your driver where to meet after the boat, since the lanes get busy and dark

Booking

Give the date and let us confirm the market is trading that day.
Say whether you want the firefly boat, which sets how late the day runs.
Book the vehicle to wait, not to drop. There is no good plan B at 21:00 in Amphawa.
If you want the morning markets too, say so — the itinerary is built backwards from Amphawa's opening.

Questions

What days is Amphawa floating market open?

Friday, Saturday and Sunday, with one source also listing public holidays. On weekdays the stalls are closed and the canal is quiet, so a midweek visit is not worth the drive from Bangkok.

What time does Amphawa floating market open?

In the afternoon, though sources disagree on exactly when: one guide gives 12:00 to 20:00, another 15:00 to 21:00, and a third says it usually opens around 14:00 with some vendors arriving earlier. It is at its best in the late afternoon and evening.

What time do the firefly boats leave?

There is no fixed schedule — boats depart as soon as they are full, and most leave the market around 19:00. A private boat has been listed at 600 baht if you prefer not to wait for a shared one.

Will we definitely see fireflies?

No. They are seasonal and weather-dependent, and at least one reviewer reported seeing very few. The river after dark is worth the trip on its own; treat the fireflies as a bonus.

Can we do Amphawa and Damnoen Saduak on the same day?

Yes, and it is the best use of the day, because they want opposite halves of it. Damnoen Saduak is at its best before 08:00 and Amphawa does not open until the afternoon. One vehicle held for the day makes the combination straightforward.

Sources

Figures on this page were checked against the following published sources on 2026-11-12. Operators change prices and hours; verify anything time-critical before you travel.

Price an Amphawa evening

Give us the date and whether you want the firefly boat. The vehicle waits — there is no sensible alternative at 21:00 in Amphawa.

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